Editing Cirrhilabrus solorensis

Jump to: navigation, search

Warning: You are not logged in. Your IP address will be publicly visible if you make any edits. If you log in or create an account, your edits will be attributed to your username, along with other benefits.

The edit can be undone. Please check the comparison below to verify that this is what you want to do, and then save the changes below to finish undoing the edit.

This page supports semantic in-text annotations (e.g. "[[Is specified as::World Heritage Site]]") to build structured and queryable content provided by Semantic MediaWiki. For a comprehensive description on how to use annotations or the #ask parser function, please have a look at the getting started, in-text annotation, or inline queries help pages.

Latest revision Your text
Line 35: Line 35:
 
|max_water_hardness=12
 
|max_water_hardness=12
 
}}
 
}}
 
+
{{Basic fish page
== Sexing ==
+
|sexing=:Mature males will be most vibrant in colour and usually show a dark shading or band along the end of the gill cover.
:Mature males will be most vibrant in colour and usually show a dark shading or band along the end of the gill cover.
+
|diet=:The most important consideration is the food you should feed the fairy wrasses. Generally, fairy wrasses will eventually learn to accept most any food offered even though they are zooplanktivores. Initially when Cirrhilabrus spp. livestock are obtained they can be choosy eaters and should be installed into a quarantine tank along with lots of well fed live tanaids. Enriched mosquito larvae or live brine shrimp can be used as the first food offered to the initiates, as well as Mysis or other live plankton. This installation of your livestock into quarantine is your chance, while they are in a small space and still very hungry, to teach them to eat amphipods.
 
 
     
 
== Diet ==
 
:The most important consideration is the food you should feed the fairy wrasses. Generally, fairy wrasses will eventually learn to accept most any food offered even though they are zooplanktivores. Initially when Cirrhilabrus spp. livestock are obtained they can be choosy eaters and should be installed into a quarantine tank along with lots of well fed live tanaids. Enriched mosquito larvae or live brine shrimp can be used as the first food offered to the initiates, as well as Mysis or other live plankton. This installation of your livestock into quarantine is your chance, while they are in a small space and still very hungry, to teach them to eat amphipods.
 
 
:Live amphipods are one of the easiest to get a high quality larval food preparations and yeast based feeds into any of your livestock, though both fish and amphipods may be adult specimens. Larval feeds are very fattening and that’s just what’s needed by newly transferred livestock. Also, amphipods eat benthic morphs of micro-algae as they are omnivorous detritivores and are great scavenger for the marine and reef aquarium. Benthic species of algae can be cultured in treated tap water using f/2 with the Melodina II culture medium modification in a controlled environment, thus preventing the transfer of harmful ciliates and at the same time making the alga very nutritious and cheaply loading the food chain with highly beneficial colloidal minerals. To my knowledge, amphipods don’t do much in the way of positive trophic modification within the food chain as harpacticoid copepods do, but amphipods can eat a large amount of feed in a short amount of time and are easily transferred from their place of culture to area of your livestock; the process is called “gut packing” of food animals. Zooplanktivores the size of dragonets and fairy wrasse have a natural fear of eating anything the size of the even the smallest adult amphipod. So Cirrhilabrus spp. must be trained to recognize amphipods as food, go after and attack them for food.
 
:Live amphipods are one of the easiest to get a high quality larval food preparations and yeast based feeds into any of your livestock, though both fish and amphipods may be adult specimens. Larval feeds are very fattening and that’s just what’s needed by newly transferred livestock. Also, amphipods eat benthic morphs of micro-algae as they are omnivorous detritivores and are great scavenger for the marine and reef aquarium. Benthic species of algae can be cultured in treated tap water using f/2 with the Melodina II culture medium modification in a controlled environment, thus preventing the transfer of harmful ciliates and at the same time making the alga very nutritious and cheaply loading the food chain with highly beneficial colloidal minerals. To my knowledge, amphipods don’t do much in the way of positive trophic modification within the food chain as harpacticoid copepods do, but amphipods can eat a large amount of feed in a short amount of time and are easily transferred from their place of culture to area of your livestock; the process is called “gut packing” of food animals. Zooplanktivores the size of dragonets and fairy wrasse have a natural fear of eating anything the size of the even the smallest adult amphipod. So Cirrhilabrus spp. must be trained to recognize amphipods as food, go after and attack them for food.
 
:Usually, a healthy specimen of any Cirrhilabrus sp. will consume any commercial foods within a week or two of arriving into your aquarium, but tanaids and harpacticoid copepods are a natural food source, will be consumed instantly. These food animals can remain the staple of their diet, but they will eventually accept any of the other various frozen, freeze-dried, flaked, live or pelletized foods on the market. Once installed into the aquarium prime, your fairy wrasse will supplement its diet by eating the fauna from off the aquarium walls and on live rock. Use caution when mixing this Cirrhilabrus spp. with other predators of benthic food animals as in any aquaria since they will compete with each other for food animals and quickly decimate the supply. None the less, if you’re going to do that, it’s probably best to culture amphipods.
 
:Usually, a healthy specimen of any Cirrhilabrus sp. will consume any commercial foods within a week or two of arriving into your aquarium, but tanaids and harpacticoid copepods are a natural food source, will be consumed instantly. These food animals can remain the staple of their diet, but they will eventually accept any of the other various frozen, freeze-dried, flaked, live or pelletized foods on the market. Once installed into the aquarium prime, your fairy wrasse will supplement its diet by eating the fauna from off the aquarium walls and on live rock. Use caution when mixing this Cirrhilabrus spp. with other predators of benthic food animals as in any aquaria since they will compete with each other for food animals and quickly decimate the supply. None the less, if you’re going to do that, it’s probably best to culture amphipods.
 
+
|identification=:A striking and attractive fish who's colours may change depending on mood. Males in breeding condition are the most vibrant. It's body is predominantly blue with bright red running along the spine and the face is vibrant yellow-orange while the belly is a paler yellow.
     
+
}}
== Identification ==
 
:A striking and attractive fish who's colours may change depending on mood. Males in breeding condition are the most vibrant. It's body is predominantly blue with bright red running along the spine and the face is vibrant yellow-orange while the belly is a paler yellow.
 
 
 
     
 
 
{{Categories
 
{{Categories
 
|Category=Fish, Fish (Saltwater), Wrasse
 
|Category=Fish, Fish (Saltwater), Wrasse

Please note that all contributions to The Aquarium Wiki are considered to be released under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License (see The Aquarium Wiki:Copyrights for details). If you do not want your writing to be edited mercilessly and redistributed at will, then do not submit it here.
You are also promising us that you wrote this yourself, or copied it from a public domain or similar free resource. Do not submit copyrighted work without permission!

Cancel | Editing help (opens in new window)

Clicking on these items will add those character or phrases into the field above.

General Characters

°C °F ° ± × ÷ ¯ #
¹ ² ³ ½ ¼ ¾ © ® £ ¥
<sup></sup> <sub></sub> <ref></ref> <references/>

Articles Standards

#REDIRECT [[ ]]
{{Needimage}}
{{mergefrom}}
{{mergeto}}
{{Bad Format}}
{{stub}}
{{Distinguish Dangerous}}

Conversion Templates

{{F|temp1|temp2}}
{{C|temp1|temp2}}
{{in|length1|length2}}
{{cm|length1|length2}}
{{L|vollum1|vollum2}}
{{gal|vollum1|vollum2}}
{{d|degree1|degree2}} - deg. and ppm
{{ppm|ppm1|ppm2}} - ppm and deg.


Copyright Tags

{{Rights reserved |title= |url= |from= |details=}}
{{PD-release}}
{{No rights reserved}}
{{No Image Copyright Information |url= |comments=}}
{{CC-BY |version= |source= |author=}}
{{CC-BY-SA |version= |source= |author=}}
{{CC-BY-ND |version= |source= |author=}}
{{CC-BY-NC |version= |source= |author=}}
{{CC-BY-NC-ND |version= |source= |author=}}
{{CC-BY-NC-SA |version= |source= |author=}}



{{Creative Commons |License= |url= |details=}}
{{Product-review}}

Categories

[[Category:]]
[[Category:Glossary]]�
[[Category:Glossary - Plants]]�
[[Category:Fish Species]]�.
[[Category:Fish (Freshwater)]]�.
[[Category:Amphibians]]�
[[Category:Cat Fish]]�
[[Category:Companies]]�
[[Category:Product Review]]�
[[Category:Products]]�
[[Category:Coral (Saltwater)]]�
[[Category:Invertebrates]]�
[[Category:Invertebrates (Freshwater)]]�
[[Category:Invertebrates (Saltwater)]]�
[[Category:Plants (Freshwater)]]�
[[Category:Images - Amphibians]]�
[[Category:Images - Invertebrates]]�
[[Category:Images - Invertebrates (Freshwater)]]�
[[Category:Images - Fish (Freshwater)]]�
[[Category:Images - Commercial Products]]�

This page is a member of 1 hidden category: